An expedition for our palates...wines of India
A group of us got together recently to taste an array of 8 wines from India. This unusual tasting included 6 wines that had been shipped directly to us from India, through a friend of my father. The tasting came about when my father, who grew up in India, visited our office a few months ago and talked with our office mate and friend Kimberly Charles of Charles Communications about India and the growing wine industry there. Kimberly was intrigued, and the next thing we knew, a mysterious, tightly shut crate arrived for her.
Kimberly, whose business develops marketing and public relations campaigns for wine and spirit companies, made the occasion of the arrival of the Indian wines into a fun event, inviting some impressive palates to taste them: Scott H. the restaurant reviewer of San Francisco Magazine, Alder Yarrow of Vinography and Olga KatzNelson, who works with Kimberly and is known, along with Kimberly, for impressive, funny one-liners. The wonderful Meredith Arthur and Eric from CHOW came to film our tasting for a web video for their site.
We got food from Chaat Café (the place has the wonderful aromas of India, and even has Kulfi, an Indian type of ice cream, in to-go bowls and in a popsicle form! I didn’t try them but can’t wait). We got saag paneer, lamb curry, chicken tikka masala, naan, and loads and loads of pakoras.
A quick background on Indian wines that we all just learned: The major wine producing areas are in the state of Maharashtra, in the central western part of the country, inland from Mumbai, and further south near Bangalore, which is also home to lots of tech companies. There are about 38 wineries throughout the country and 36 of these are in Maharashtra. In the 1980s, winemaking began in earnest, with wineries importing French grapes to cultivate.
On to the wines. We tasted all the wines without food first, in pairs. Here’s a quick overview of our notes. If you’re interested in creating a Indian winetasting, visit the winery websites (links below), and send an email to the distributors to see where you can find these wines. They tend to cost between $16-$35).
Alder offered a helpful perspective on pairing Indian foods with wine: he noted that spices tend to accentuate alcohol in wine, especially when the spices have heat, so you might want to look for lighter-bodied, sweeter and more aromatic wines.
WHITE WINES
Grover Vineyards , Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Nandi Hills
The winery is located in southern India, on the outskirts of Bangalore. Michel Rolland collaborated on this wine, and it is exported to the US, UK and Japan. The winery is partnered with the French champagne house Veuve Clicqot Ponsardin.
Comments: This is a “competent” wine; “I like it as is”, The wine has lots of acid, so might be good with certain kinds of food, “The wine tastes tired; I’d like to try a younger vintage.” In general, this group was impressed with the winemaking of this wine.
Sula Vineyards, Chenin Blanc, 2006, Nashik
Sula may be the most easy-to-find of these Indian wines. This winery is located in northern Maharashtra, 2000 feet above sea level.
Comments: really well made; I enjoy this, but it doesn’t taste like a typical Chenin Blanc; musky, peachy aroma, and a nice balance of sweetness and acid. I like it! (me); aromas of apple and caramel. Alder prefers his chenin blancs to have aromas of parchment paper, almost like an old library, and this wine doesn’t have that.
Chateau Indage, Chardonnay, 2005, Sahyadri Valley This winery is partnered with Piper HeidseickMe: Musky aromas and a finish of honey and butter, balances by acid. I’m not a fan of buttery, CA chardonnays, so I enjoyed the restraint of this one. But I was very much alone! Others gave it a thumbs down, except one person had this mixed comment: Tastes like the winemaker poured in a few drops of flavoring for oak, butter, fruit, and then mixed it up. BUT, I’d also like to drink the whole bottle with Indian food.
Grover Vineyards Shiraz Rose, 2006, Nandi Hills
Light, raspberry juice color. Olga may have had the best description of the flavor: Bollywood movie in a glass! It was sweet and, as Kimberly described it, had a candy apple aroma and may suffer from too much skin contact. Alder added that there is an acetone flavor at the finish, and Scott, a Rose fan, did not like this at all.
RED WINES
Grover Vineyards, la Reserve Red Wine, 2004, Nandi Hills
Grover Vineyards, la Reserve Red Wine, 2003, Nandi Hills
Satori, Merlt NV, Nashik
Chateau Indage, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Sahyadri Valley
Generally, none of us loved these red wines, and to be honest, there were some much stronger negative feelings about these. Some of the descriptions included: acetone, artichoke, very simple, Band-Aid aroma (Kimbelry noted that it has an aroma of a horse covered in Band-Aids!), and with the final wine, we all seemed to find aromas of movie candy: mint chocolate, good and plenty, jelly beans, and more, but not in a good way (and I love candy!). Overall comments: stick with the Indian white wines, and explore those.
